Popular Dining Culture

TRAVEL SERIES IN PARRY'S

Parry’s Corner

At the Heart of an Andhran Taste.

George-Town was a well known Brit-time town, which was a prosperous commercial zone as it was a settlement that was meant to be for the families of those who worked at the Fort St. George. Originally built by British Colonists in the 1630s, it subsequently expanded several times. Since then Parry’s corner as it is now known is pulsating with businesses that have been thriving well over almost three-fourth of the last century. Dare house is a very famous landmark which is home to the huge business house of Chennai – called the Murugappa Group. Here we explore the pulse of this city that is Parrys.

National Lodge, established in 1951, in the heart of Sowcarpet- by Kota Ethirajulu, is a well known landmark, making people flock here for a sumptuous meal at a very nominal amount.

Today at its helm, are two young brothers Deepak and Dwarak to carry forward this 60-year old legacy which their maternal grandfather left behind to them. Serving its specialty Andhra meals for over the last 59 years, it has 90% of patronage who are loyal customers. The busy Sowcarpet area which attracts businessmen from all over the state and from other states too, stop over here to tingle their taste buds with about 20 andhran varieties with an unlimited serving of rice.

As I climb up the stairs of this 110-year old building, an old-world charming reception welcomes me. A yellow interior is streaming with day-light, unlike the dingy staircase that I just climbed up.

Dwarak, the younger one who joined his brother Deepak after 1994, tells me that about a 1000 people climb up this staircase during day time only to dine in at the hotel. With a capacity to seat about 70 persons at one go, they follow a token calling system to maintain decorum and smooth flow of diners. Apart from dining in, they get business for more than 300 takeaways in a single day shares Dwarak with me!

A regular day at National Lodge starts at 5.30 am for the 25 odd employees and goes on till 3.30 pm, after which they take a break and start preparing for the next shift which starts at 7.30 pm and goes on till 10.30 pm. Deepak tells me that employee management has been the greatest challenge for him and he has learnt from his grandfather the art of being a patient employer with them. One finds waiters moving around in their ubiquitous uniforms – displaying National Lodge’s initial – NL. He denotes that their success is contributed by their employees.

A very interesting piece of information that Dwarak shares is that the kitchen is still the olden style that was during his grandfather’s time and food is still cooked here in firewood, a method that has resulted in maintaining hygiene and great taste, apart from contributing to saving costs.

Meals are priced at various ranges. Basic meal is served at Rupees 50, an A/c meal is at Rupees 60, and takeaways offering more variety is at Rupees 110. The single most favourite dish among regulars here is the gongura – which is also known by the name ‘Andhra Mata’.

Gun powder or garlic powder as it is known is the specialty at National Lodge. A group of men sit and powder down the ingredients which they serve as a variety the next day. An about of 100 kilograms is grinded down on an everyday basis. They have also involved in marketing this garlic powder, in a small scale way.

The two brothers say that it is a matter of great pride to them that people recognize them abroad and share their experiences with them. They are happy to be associated with the legacy of this unique hotel.

National Lodge, Sowcarpet is open from Mon through Sat 9.30 am to 3.30 pm and 7.30 to 10.30 pm. Sundays is open only for takeaways. To taste a share of this Andhra fare- Contact At: 9840677288, 235, Govindappa Naicken St.