Spirituality In Parry's

TRAVEL SERIES IN PARRY'S

Parry’s Corner 

Tradition of Spirituality

 In Parry’s 

Keeping with the tradition of preserving all that is old, Parry’s is an apt example of evolution; from the Dravidian times through the British Raj, and a part of a famous metropolitan of south India. Though it has come a long way, there certainly are some aspects which have remained constant. One such is the tradition of spirituality that one finds rampant in Parry’s. Past is always part of present and a living example of this we see in the Temples, Churches and Masjids that hold a very special place in every Parry’s dweller’s heart.

Legend has it that the Chennaikuppam area, a 17^th century settlement, had a presiding deity called Chennamman, the Goddess who is consecrated near the sea shore in Chennai. This area was called Muthialpet, which later was famous as Chennammankuppam. The presiding deity of Chennammankuppam was Kali and now she is called Kalikambal.

Sri Kalikambal Temple is situated in the heart of old Madras. It is a famous area for many schools, one such being the Muthialpet Higher Secondary School, an old school in Tamil Nadu since 1847. The temple was relocated to its present location during the period of British rule in India, but many believe that its original location was closer to the sea shore. It is also believed that a firece ugra form of the Goddess was held in worship earlier, and that this form was replaced with the Shanta Swaroopa form of Kamakshi, along with a Meru in the recent past.

The Temple’s historical significance is very prominent. It is recorded that Chatrapathi Sivaji, visited Madras to pray at this temple, in 1677. He then returned to his kingdom, This temple, located in a street named Thambu Chetty street, sees crowds on Fridays. And special arrangement is made for traffic movement on this day, as crowds throng even outside the temple, as devotees install make-shift stalls selling flowers, jaggery and pooja items in the form of an attractive flea market. A 10-day festival known as the Brahmotsavam  is celebrated in all vigor during the months of May and June.

Another famous temple in the near-by area is the Kandaswamy Temple, situated at the Rasappa Chetty Street. The temple dates back to many centuries. Saivates are inclined towards this temple, as shrines of Siva, Vishnu and Brahma are worshipped here. Amongst so many visitors to Parry’s a sizeable of them definitely come to visit this temple. The temple is centrally located, easily accessible to pilgrims, located in the busy Flower-Bazaar, more famously known to auto-gars and rickshaw-pullers as ‘Kandaswamy Koil street. Apart from its sanctity, the temple is also known for its architectural brilliance. The most astonishing thing about this temple is that the Thirtha or water in the temple tank is reportedly to be at the same level as it was during its installation.

Amazingly, three churches - The Armenian Church, The St. Anthony’s Church and the St. Mary’s Co-Cathedral are located in linearity. As much as the Armenian Church is a quiet testimony to the passage of time, the St. Anthony’s Church witnesses crowds of faithful devotees visiting the St. Anthony’s Church. Amongst scores of visitors, devotees jostle their way to receive a share of their patron Saint’s sublimity. The street corner is filled with activity and bustle, with flower sellers, gift and prayer item-sellers, vying for space and attention amongst thousands of vistors who pave their way into the street on Tuesdays.

On the other hand, the Armenian Church located adjacent to the St. Anthony’s Church, on the Armenian Church is a very quietly beautiful place. Reconstructed in 1772, is the oldest surviving church of its kind in India. It is famous for its belfry of six. The Church is also called the Armenian Church of Virgin Mary. The care-taker, Alexander even till today, lights a lamp in the chapel everyday, and rings the Sunday bells, a reminder to us of our glorious past. 

As I move around and take in the quiet beauty of this old church, he tells me that Armenians have a deep link to history of Madras than what is known. Khojah Petrus Watskun, the man behind the Marmalong Adyar bridge, devoted his time and money to this bridge, and the steps to the St. Thomas Mount have also actually been built by an Armenian, he tells me. While trying to put the pieces of this glorious history together at the Church, many visitors from Armenia come here, probably in something similar quest as mine. And I realize that the Church is not just a historical monument. But a living entity which is a melting pot for communities.  

The famous Masjid-e-Mamoor, located in the colorful angappa naicken st, was first built in 18^th century, and reconstructed in 19^th century, by the Nawab of Arcot. The street is a busy  zone with shops and eat-outs clustered around the masjid. The street wears a distinct charm, as shops are open upto 9.00 pm and there is always activity here, since there are a number of joints where people gather to eat.  There is scope for window shopping here for variety of prayer items, women’s hijabs and men’s clothing that are open here 365 days a year. The masjid can accommodate more than five thousand people at a time.

The Saifee Masjid, an example of the rich Fatemi legacy in Chennai, was inaugurated by the Head of its community in the late 1970’s. A three-floor masjid, it is spacious, accommodating about 9,000 people at a time. The marble-walled inscriptions engraving the name of Allah and Prophet Mohammed (A.S)’s followers, is a masjid for Dawoodi Bohras of the city. It is located in the Moore Street, which is close to beach station. This stretch got its name Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin Street, named after the Head of the Community.

Parry’s a home to many classic temples, churches and masjids mirrors the unique blend of the ancient and the new, an illustration to us of the glorious link that Parry’s has to our past. Absorbing all of this into a vibrant present, this is the tradition of spirituality in Parry’s.

Dining Culture In Parry's

 TRAVEL SERIES IN PARRY'S

Parry’s Corner 

There’s something for every Palate in Parry’s.

Trust me, street food in Parry’s is really catching up. Professionally made sumptuous meal at throw away price, where else will you find this combination other than in Parry’s?

Hygiene is something that one will need to be cautious about. So exercising caution while eating street food in Parry’s, is the number one tip to survive it. But here are some of my all-time favorite places where I can hang out, alone or with friends, which I can vouch for any day, popular as well as budget-friendly.

OLD and NEW

Snacks outlets have been here for very many years. Aggarwal Bhavan, Ramakrishna Bhavan, were here in Parry’s for over 3 decades now, occupying a pride of place. The popularity of them, has seen a high and a low, but has maintained a flow of customers to their joints. One feels welcome while walking into Ramakrishna Bhavan; spacious and stacked with umpteen number of delightful goodies; fascinating me even as a kid, this has remained in the Pandora box of my memories and I still visit this place to check out savories and sweets occasionally as I still savor the aroma and the sight of golden glow that is reflected through the yellow plates over the place.

Not very old is the Adyar Ananda Bhavan, opened about a decade back, even during non-peak season sees a brisk flow of customers. Suprabaa, opened with much bang, three years ago, to add to the competition, is also an alternative to the High Court and Bank crowds that visit the area. The owner at the Suprabaa tells me that holiday season and vacation time is when they cash in on their sales.

Just around the corner on N.S.C Bose Road, a cart selling a tantalizing pani-puri, is an occasional sight on this busy main road. The puri and the pani, usually covered in a red cloth, is perhaps playing a part in attracting a lot of chat food lovers, I notice now-a-days, as throngs of people delightedly munch away at this much-sought street food.

 Restaurants

Sangeetha Veg Restaurant, Saravana Bhavan and Hot Chips are just some of the prominent names that have established themselves for long now, fair enough as the main crowds get attracted to these restaurants. But the more food-savvy parry resident, is having much more of choices open, as more and more newbies are asserting themselves as caterers and dine-out lets.  To sample what I am talking about, Cilantro, a catering unit located on the Armenian street, is very popular with the shipping and logistics crowd out here. A decent amount of delicious curry, to

be eaten with a naan or rice, priced at less than rupees fifty, is a sumptuous food that I can enjoy after a hard day, shares an employee at a local logistics branch with me. Not far, on Broadway is the Sea Shore restaurant, the ultimate Arabian food delight. The Shevarmas are plainly yummy, and decently priced. And finally don’t miss out on this, even as you try to negotiate your way through the scorching summer heat - Sangeetha Veg Restaurant’s Bhakala Bhat, priced at around rupees thirty five, will take care of the wrecked nerves, while you do so!

Bakery

Pick up your favorite muffins, at Rupees twenty, or your walnut cake at rupees thirty five. The fresh baked aroma and the quick and genteel service at the Mcrennet has delighted many a baked-food lover for more than two decades. If you want an alternative to Mcrennet’s, you will not have to go far, as moulana’s bakery an equally well-known in this segment of food is at a close vicinity, in broadway. Mcrennnet’s has a delightful stock of fresh just-out-of-bakery biscuits, whereas Moulana’s breads are something one should get a taste of in a life time.

Coffee Bars

Right from Cosmo Cafeteria upto the Lamcy Coffee, Filter Coffee with its delightful aroma is an all-time favorite. The tea-kadais cater to the Corporates, business houses and shops whereas the coffee bars cater to the crowds which visit at the High Court.

Juices

Most popular among school students and office crowds here, is also the sliced cut mango and pineapple fruits, that is available at most corners. Also sugarcane and mosambi juice-sellers are very common. Delight in a plate of cut mangoes and pineapple fruits at just around rupees fifteen.

Kebabs and Tandoori fare

Mannady is a haven for kebab-lovers and tandoori food here sells fast, especially post the evening fall. Kebabs is something that I am regular at, and deep-fried in ghee, consisting of about nine pieces priced at around hundred rupees, is definitely a taste that you will remember. Close-by, on the Moore street, opposite the beach station, crowds delightfully savour the tandoori food made by a loyal, whose chicken tikkas are famously known as ‘Guru’s Tikkas’. It is priced at rupees hundred and twenty onwards, hygienically prepared and worth its taste.

Ice-creams

Though not home to the famous ice-cream vendors, Alambardar, and other such parlours of its like are joints where locals usually chill out with ice-creams of variety of flavours – Badam Pista, Kesar, Mango, you name it, half a kilo at rupees ninety, will not leave the taste-buds that easily.  Kulfis of various flavours are also available here.

History & Culture Of Parry's

TRAVEL SERIES IN PARRY'S

Parry’s Corner 

The History and the Culture of the famous Parry's Corner.

All Roads Lead to Parry’s

Remnants of a glorious past, one can find in Parry’s. Even as it is enjoys an undisputable recognition as the commercial capital of Chennai, it holds on to its Brit time ingenuity, a distinct feature that only Parry's can associate itself with even today.

People still flock to Parry’s in search of the best deal, be it for hardware goods or temple jewellery. Parry’s Corner, as it is popularly known always conjures up in the mind of a Chennaite, a colorful picture.

Here as we explore the unique links of this area that has its links with the historical past of Madras, while living through the color and rhythm of life in Parry’s.

A Hub of Commerce

Parry’s has been the first part of the city to come up with a fascinating piece of history. Thomas Parry who first landed in Madras in 1788, was a Welsh merchant who established the E.I.D Parry building which now houses the giant conglomerate called the Murugappa Group. John Binny was the next person who came to Madras in 1797 and he established the textile company Binny & Co.

Old and prominent Educational Institutions

Many old schools like the St.Columban’s School or the Bharathi Women’s College, reminding of our charming past as well as carrying forward the wonderful tradition of Educational values and making its presence felt here for many decades has seen generations of students passing through its portals. 

Fort of St. George

Colonial rule marked the beginning of the city's growth as a major commercial centre. Today, most of the large business houses have their offices in George Town, while Fort St George is the power centre of the Tamil Nadu state government. One of the first settlements of modern Madras has been located in this very area, with the workers at Fort. St George had their families dwelling in the nearby town. Known as the Black-Town earlier, it eventually came to be known as George-Town, linking itself to the Fort of St. George.

The Socio-cultural milieu

The fruit seller round the corner in Errabalu Chetty Street, has been selling fruits here in Parry’s for over 40 years now. He brings into highlight that he has not got a house to live in with his family. And the Government must do the needful to help people like me, as  we have business for over so many years in the area.

High Court

The building of the High Court, an exquisite example of Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, was built in 1892, under the guidance of the famed architect Henry Irwin. It has been a very important presence, attracting many visitors. The surrounding restaurants and bazaars therefore is always buzzing with an activity, whilst visitors come and go here. A Law Practitioner at the High Court, Kirthika, points out that though High Court is situated in Parry’s, the main center for all law practices to get approval from here. Most of the time I find that there is little amenity provided for people in terms of toilets, infrastructure and good drainage system, which is very contradictory state for a Law Practitioner to see.

Links to Armenia

Parry’s is also home to the only reminder of the bygone era- the Holy Virgin Mary church of 1772, located at the Armenian Street, South Black Town (this area is now called Georgetown).

The Armenians have been staying in India since remote antiquity. The Armenians claim to have arrived in India before the British. They also claim to have been the forerunners to be converted into Christianity in the European continent.

The grave of many Armenian merchants lying in the silence of this beautiful monument is a testimony to the trade and commercial relations between Armenia and India some centuries back.

Fleet of Bus Services

The Khadi Kraft Bus Depot was the centre of all Bus services until in 2002, the CMBT was moved to Koyambedu. Though still for long distances there are two main stands in the George Town called Express Bus Stand and Broadway.

Shopping

To shop in Parry’s means to shop always for a good bargain. Well, isn’t that what we hear about Parry’s. Many interesting names of streets such as Stringer’s street, Bunder Street, Godown street, is also a place to check out as they are a haven for wholesale buffs. And the stuff that one can get here – right from kirana dry fruits, to foot wear to apparel… which is all at the best deal. Now it will leave little for you to wonder why Parry’s holds a special place in a shopper’s diary for things to buy at wholesale value.

Parry’s continues to be the hub of commercial activity. Such as wholesale markets of shoe, apparel, and hardware items as well as it is well connected with public transport system, such as the Madras Transport Corporation, had its all city Bus Depot located right here which was shifted last decade to Koyembedu.

With much development during the recent past, Parry’s has witnessed much of commercial and institutional activities. And thanks to this, that Parry’s is still the amalgamation of all that is modern yet historical.

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Popular Dining Culture

TRAVEL SERIES IN PARRY'S

Parry’s Corner

At the Heart of an Andhran Taste.

George-Town was a well known Brit-time town, which was a prosperous commercial zone as it was a settlement that was meant to be for the families of those who worked at the Fort St. George. Originally built by British Colonists in the 1630s, it subsequently expanded several times. Since then Parry’s corner as it is now known is pulsating with businesses that have been thriving well over almost three-fourth of the last century. Dare house is a very famous landmark which is home to the huge business house of Chennai – called the Murugappa Group. Here we explore the pulse of this city that is Parrys.

National Lodge, established in 1951, in the heart of Sowcarpet- by Kota Ethirajulu, is a well known landmark, making people flock here for a sumptuous meal at a very nominal amount.

Today at its helm, are two young brothers Deepak and Dwarak to carry forward this 60-year old legacy which their maternal grandfather left behind to them. Serving its specialty Andhra meals for over the last 59 years, it has 90% of patronage who are loyal customers. The busy Sowcarpet area which attracts businessmen from all over the state and from other states too, stop over here to tingle their taste buds with about 20 andhran varieties with an unlimited serving of rice.

As I climb up the stairs of this 110-year old building, an old-world charming reception welcomes me. A yellow interior is streaming with day-light, unlike the dingy staircase that I just climbed up.

Dwarak, the younger one who joined his brother Deepak after 1994, tells me that about a 1000 people climb up this staircase during day time only to dine in at the hotel. With a capacity to seat about 70 persons at one go, they follow a token calling system to maintain decorum and smooth flow of diners. Apart from dining in, they get business for more than 300 takeaways in a single day shares Dwarak with me!

A regular day at National Lodge starts at 5.30 am for the 25 odd employees and goes on till 3.30 pm, after which they take a break and start preparing for the next shift which starts at 7.30 pm and goes on till 10.30 pm. Deepak tells me that employee management has been the greatest challenge for him and he has learnt from his grandfather the art of being a patient employer with them. One finds waiters moving around in their ubiquitous uniforms – displaying National Lodge’s initial – NL. He denotes that their success is contributed by their employees.

A very interesting piece of information that Dwarak shares is that the kitchen is still the olden style that was during his grandfather’s time and food is still cooked here in firewood, a method that has resulted in maintaining hygiene and great taste, apart from contributing to saving costs.

Meals are priced at various ranges. Basic meal is served at Rupees 50, an A/c meal is at Rupees 60, and takeaways offering more variety is at Rupees 110. The single most favourite dish among regulars here is the gongura – which is also known by the name ‘Andhra Mata’.

Gun powder or garlic powder as it is known is the specialty at National Lodge. A group of men sit and powder down the ingredients which they serve as a variety the next day. An about of 100 kilograms is grinded down on an everyday basis. They have also involved in marketing this garlic powder, in a small scale way.

The two brothers say that it is a matter of great pride to them that people recognize them abroad and share their experiences with them. They are happy to be associated with the legacy of this unique hotel.

National Lodge, Sowcarpet is open from Mon through Sat 9.30 am to 3.30 pm and 7.30 to 10.30 pm. Sundays is open only for takeaways. To taste a share of this Andhra fare- Contact At: 9840677288, 235, Govindappa Naicken St.

Personality

PERSONALITY: Telling Her Story through Puppetry

A charming persona S. Seethalakshmi’s passion for her art shines through her eyes as she talks about her wonderful relation with her art.

I began my journey in life, when at the age of three I was fascinated by this art. My maternal uncle M.V. Ramanamurthy, who founded a school of puppetry in Kakinada, in Andhra, sowed the first seed of this art in my mind. Later, my special interest in puppetry was fed by my mother who had taken a keen interest to ensure that I got the best learning in artistic pursuits.

Since I was the only girl among my first three brothers, I took this to my advantage and evinced great inclination towards it. When at the age of nine, I was performing a show, along with my Uncle at the Island Grounds, Mrs. YGP and Dr. Raghavan, spotted my talent and from then on it has been a flow of work for me.

Next came an offer to me by Dr. Nayudama, the leather technologist who was with the Central Leather Research Institute. He started the puppetry division with the CLRI, and gave me the job to carry it forward. And thus with CLRI started my career spanning through five-decades with this beautiful form of art.

Since this Indian form uses not original puppets but their shadows - in black and white or in colour. The flat figures, usually made of leather, are lightly pressed on some translucent screen with a strong source of light behind. The screen in India is a simple sheet stretched on an adjustable frame. The screen thus forms the barrier

between the audience and the puppet, creating the projection of image. The impact on the audience, surrounded by darkness all around, is quite dramatic.

Once with CRLI, we innovated the way in which we made leather, which served the purpose of disposing leather waste as well as providing cheap parchment leather.

Thus my maternal uncle who is also my mentor encouraged me and together with CLRI have tremendously shaped my career and helped me achieve what I am today. I retired from CLRI in 2006, but I continue to conduct workshops, recently being at the Dakshin Chitra, where I conduct workshop for visitors on every weekend. Whilst my visit to her home in Jan, she was busy with hundreds of puppets for a festival to be hosted in September.

One continues to listen, as Seethalakshmi weaves magical tales about her puppetry. She vividly remembers her experience in Iran. Her facial expression fills with an awe and she manages to pass down a bit of it to me, when she describes the appreciation Iranians showed towards her troupe for the story about Ramayana’s epic – how Hanuman goes in search of Seethe. She brings to my notice a magazine released by Iran’s Mubarak Festival- 2005, which records S.Sethalakshmi’s show among others in it.

My family has been my biggest strength, declares the Silken Andhra, a title by which Andhraites call her in San Francisco – where she has conducted her show, apart from in New Jersey, New York, Washington D.C. and Florida. She tells me about how they were applauded at the Austrian Art Event when their three-member team had put up Ramayana’s story consisting of 65 puppets. That day they had received a standing ovation.

S. Seethalakshmi’s two granddaughters share a similar feeling with their grandmother. I along with my younger sister Madhumika have assisted her in many local events through recent years. The work of ensuring that puppets flow in a smooth manner is of meticulous task, but grandma has never lost her rhythm of mind while working on this – says Priyanka, the elder granddaughter.

Having taken my puppet show from village to village in northern Tamilnadu, I have ventured on a 365 day expedition with my puppets for LIC, staging 100 shows on the way. I along with others came up with an interesting story for them under the title – ‘Theringa Gunda Nambu’ – know and believe. The setting is of two windows. A Jharoka – peek into two different worlds portrayed by two windows that can be seen by the audience. At one window is a poor rickshaw wallah. And at the other is a well-dressed gentleman. The poor rickshaw wallah’s family is in misery. Too many problems they face, he has many kids and little food or clothing to offer them. On the other hand, the gentleman having two children, is able to offer them good food and clothes to wear, and lives a fairly decent life. It is the family planning scheme that has ensured smooth flow to the gentleman’s life. This simple script, tells Seethalakshmi, triggered tremendous reaction from the rural folk.

Another creative output was when for Delhi Bal Bhavan’s Event in Hyderabad, they asked me to come up with a script that in three minutes would reach out with a message to the children. The story was – two best friends – one girl and one boy studying together at school. Together they come across a horse. On one side the horse is black. And on the other side the horse is white. Since both are standing in two different directions, they are able to see only one side at a time. They argue with each other for long. Finally they decide to call their Grandpa to give them a final verdict. Grandpa who has seen the white side facing towards girl’s side, is amazed when he moves to the boy’s side, to find it black there. Finally, he comes to a conclusion. The moral that the story contained was about giving respect to whatelders say. Seethalakshmi shares this anecdote with much excitement, as she had come up with this three minute story at a very short notice.

The task of telling a story through puppet requires detailing. Preparing the script, adding music and voice-over to it, giving shape to the leather, and adding color to it, for example a medium sized Rama’s image for Ramayana’s story can take upto two days. and then finally deciding how to manipulate the puppet on-screen - it is a work demanding patience and care. But a process which is enjoyable, as I love the work that it involves, says Seethalakhmi.

Though procuring the leather is a task, tells me Seethalakshmi. The leather she gets most of the time from her village in Andhra, but sometimes also gets it from the leather tanneries in Chromepet. She allows me to feel the texture of leather, as she moves on to say how this leather is then cut into a thinner sheet to make it more workable.

This is a 2000 year old art, and though it is dying now Seethalakshmi takes great pride when she shows me the different artifacts that she has created with her talent. Among others, she shows me a wooden screen that is something very close to her heart, depicting the story of Ramayana.

Having taken her art to more than 65 countries around the world, this 64-year old says she loves her art, and feels that the challenges it involves can be overcome. With a never ending family support, her passion for her puppetry continues to grow with each passing day.

Movie Review

Movie Review – Ratatouille

(Published in The Rivett – Women’s Christian College’s Campus Newspaper, 2007-2008.)

Screen Director – Brad Bird

Category – Animation

How about a thousand Rats cooking up some delectable cuisine in your kitchen?

Think you had better call the Pied Piper in? Well, think again.

If you can just for once sympathize with this most-abhorred creature, go on a date with Ratatouille this weekend, at Sathyam Theatres and you’ll be in for a whole new perspective shift about rats.

After a few moments, you’d forget that you’re watching a rat. Clever and humane, more than most human beings depicted in the movie, Remy the rat, picks up its love for cooking from the famous book of Chef Gustave which says ‘Anyone can Cook’ and from then on begins a passionate cooking affair between the Rat and well, Chef Gustave’s Ghost! The Rat has learnt the art now and uses it for a truly ‘altruistic’ purpose. From then on, I’m not giving it away because it is for you to see how.

There are many sequences which are riveting; you’re taken to places which you’d never have imagined visiting. The animators Dylan Brown and Mark Walsh have done an incredible job.

All in all, a movie that is worth every buck you pay.

Photo Exhibition

Flore Lamoureux’s Photo Exhibition

(Published in The Rivett – Women’s Christian College’s Campus Newspaper, 2007-2008).

The Flore Lamoureux’s Photo Exhibition’ which was from September 3 – 21 at the Allaince Francaise was indeed a happy experience. A collection of photos that Flore Lamoureux took on her travels around the world was put together under the title ‘Children of the World’. Looking at the photos one realizes that children all over the world share the same emotions and feelings.

Totally forty images were displayed.  While some of them were displayed in the Alliance Francaise Galleria, others were displayed outdoors, and a few others were displayed in the Allaince Francaise building. Flore’s intention was to ‘allow the visitor to have a walk around the quiet place where children from all over the world look at you in beautiful and peaceful harmony.’

A number of photographs were taken in India of children of different ages and in different moods. A boy in a quiet, contemplating moment near the Amritsar Shrine was one photo that stood out.

A lot of other photos were eye-catching too. For instance, the photos of an Arabian child carrying a lamb on its back and a young Malaysian child hiding its face behind the basket of a bicycle brought a smile to one’s face.

Out of all pictures, there was one in which a child was unsmiling and looked very somber. True to what the Galleria had to say –“Flore’s photographs reveal a link between cultures and people all around the world and invite you to view the world through their eyes.”

You might have missed Flore’s exhibition but there are new photo and painting exhibitions every month for people to see at Alliance Francaise, College Road.